January 18-19

Had to rise and shine per captain’s orders at 6:30 to see the part of Beagle Channel known as Glacier Alley.  There are five glaciers here: Holanda, Italia, Francia, Alemania and Romanche.

As we entered the channel it was still a little misty but very soon the skies mostly cleared and we were able to see the mountains and glaciers in all their glory.  It is pristeen wilderness and all I could think was if we humans can’t keep it together enough to remain welcome here and take care of what sustains us, Mother Nature won’t care.   Just like the wild animals started walking the deserted streets of cities during Covid lockdown, it gives me a strange sense of hope.  I do have faith in my offspring and their kindred spirits to do what they can, but should they fail, we as humans will have deserved nothing less than to go the way of the dinosaurs and leave Earth to penguins, mountains, birds and even cockroaches.  

I also had a moment of déjà vu as I sat there alone, looking at the glacial mountains, before Al arrived with his tea.  I was seven years old and my family was on its first camping trip – across the plains to the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone and then on to the Canadian Rockies.  Five of us all in a little car for heaven’s sake!  Arriving at the Grand Tetons was nothing like it is now, it was an unknown area at the time, the campgrounds were pit toilets and we had to go to Coulter Bay visitor center to shower.  For a child, the Tetons rising up out of the lake, blue granite and snow and glaciers, it was a child’s dream of mountains.  We Illinoisians were all rapt.  The first morning Dad made breakfast and as the story goes, suddenly Mary was gone.  When they found me, I had taken my little camp stool and my breakfast and was sitting there eating my breakfast, looking at the mountains.  My Mom joined me and the photo taken is one of my favorites.  Some things never change, I guess. 

After making our way through the glacier part of the channel I took a nap (Dramamine is throwing me for a loop, even though I am only taking what is absolutely necessary).  Awoke as we reached our final port before heading to Antarctica – Ushuaia.  We arrived two hours earlier than planned, so Al called our tour operator and she confirmed we would still go at 2:45, be back for last tender at 7:30 pm.  We found our meeting spot and then went to find a place to exchange money, stopped into a little souvenir shop – we now have a cheesy Santa ornament with Ushuaia written on it and a snow globe penguin for my adopted nephew, Phoenix. He’s four and I think he will be pleased. Then on to a panaderia for empanadas for the day and of course my Coke zero.  Made our way back to the meeting spot for the tour about 2:30 p.m. and waiting with others.  The destination would be Tierra del Fuego National Park in Argentina.  

2:45 came and went.  3:00 came and went.  Finally Al, once again taking the bull by the horns, calls the tour company.  Turns out the bus driver came at 12:45, no one was there and he left.  

After quite some time trying to communicate on the phone and everyone looking at Al like the god he is, he got assurance we would be refunded but everyone else had to call individually.  By this time it’s 3:30 and too late to really book anything else.  It should be noted that half the people waiting had been signed up for this tour via Holland America.  So, doing it through the cruise ship would not have done us any good.  We have travelled everywhere and always take private tours and except for yesterday and today we have never felt insecure about using private tours.  Their livelihood depends on them getting good reviews, as in: “they got us back to the ship in time”.  In this case I was glad the whole thing just fell through.    As it was, people who went out with other cruise tours didn’t return until 8:30 (last tender was 7:30) but of course the ship had to wait.    I was just as glad that it fell through because if they were half an hour late I’m not sure I would have gone at all.  Next place to catch the ship is the Falkland Islands.  I don’t want to miss Antarctica! 

Aaaanyway, we stopped at the tourist center and got a few ideas of what else we could do around town.  We ended up just walking along the harbor and out on spit where the airport is.  It felt great to just really walk and get fresh windy air.  The town sits at the base of the last of the Andes and it almost looks like in winter it would be a ski destination – many condo looking buildings.  Other than that, it reminded us of little towns in Iceland, a harbor town with an occasional decaying boat dotting the shore.  I decided to find a fabric shop and did find two in town on my phone but misread the map and it turns out they were back where we had just been half an hour ago.  Divine intervention.  I do not need more fabric.  

The next morning was another early morning, awakened by an announcement from our captain to get up and get moving!  We were rounding Cape Horn.  We were once again blessed with a beautiful sunny morning.  I’m really starting to run out of adjectives for all this, forgive me. As your favorite philosopher, my impressions have more to do with “how did I get here and what’s it all mean, Mr. Natural”.  How many photos have I seen of Cape Horn, the lighthouse, the last of the continent that gets smaller and smaller and then disappears gradually into the sea.  And I’m here.  I consider the lighthouse keeper and his wife and 9 year old son and 5 year old daughter who live here for a year, getting supplies every three months.  What that must be like.  What a different life to live than the one I’ve been living.  There is no question I am in love with the sea.  The mountains have their own mystery but they do not call me the way the sea does. 

Having said that for the past 24 hours now we’ve been crossing Drake’s Passage, some of the roughest waters of the world, located between Cape Horn and Antarctica.  Gotta do it to get to the pot of gold.  I am feeling lucky, the weather has been good and promises to get even better, but nevertheless, I need IV Dramamine.  I exaggerate, but it’s a lot of work.  Walking anywhere on the ship is a chore as you bounce like a pinball from wall to wall.  The lido deck, where the food is, requires cat like reflexes from everyone as you attempt to pass someone carrying a plate of food or a cup of coffee and they are doing to the same and suddenly you are on a collision course.  As a physical therapist you know I worry about some of these folks using assistive devices.  The safest place to be is on a scooter…

I played mahjong but then spent the rest of the evening in the cabin, watching the Food Channel (there are not many options on a ship) and having room service.  I just didn’t feel up to dealing with it.  I’m fine, really, no vomiting or anything, just kind of a low grade heaviness in my brain that is uncomfortable.  

Sometime early evening we started to hear loud BOOMS  every couple of minutes that sounded like they were coming from above us (we are on deck 7, two decks above us are dining and pool and “crows nest” lounge).  I though perhaps something was bouncing around the outdoor lido deck pool, but these were BIG booms, like a pile driver, I’m so serious.  I finally called guest services just because I was interested and got a call back telling us the ship is designed “that way” to keep it from breaking apart!  Well hells bells then, boom away.  I still don’t know exactly what it is but it I want to find out and will before the trip is done. Something fascinating. (Since writing this without talking to the captain himself the nearest and most likely answer I’ve gotten it that it is waves hitting the ship).  I did eventually fall asleep. The seas are a little better this morning but not much.  I’m camped out in front of a window where I can look out into the distance and admire the beautiful waves and the sea birds playing next to the ship. 

Again, I will try to upload a few photos.  No promises, but if you really want to see what I’ve seen go ahead and google it and look at the maps and photos of what I’ve mentioned.  I guarantee my photos won’t be better than anything you can find online….