January 28

Early morning rise and shine, headed off the ship to meet our tour to see – more penguins.  Our tour had been changed from the original destination to see thousands and thousands more Magellan penguins.  At first we were not too happy about this, but our assigned guide assured us we were going somewhere better.  The cruise tours all go to the  Punto Tambo where there are something like half a million Magellan penguins.  Only 12 of us would be going to a private ranch where a new colony (2008) has appeared and now there are approximately 4000. That’s enough.  It would still include a visit to one of the two lighthouses on either side of this bay and and overlook to sea lion colony.  Also lunch including lamb that had been cooking over an open fire all morning.  

Our guide, Rita, spoke perfect English (always a relief, to be honest) and started by telling us the Spanish and the Italians were not the first to come here from Europe, but rather the Welsh (which was also true at the Falklands). Madryn is the name of the Welsh family that settled the area and it is a “city” in a part of the world that does not boast a large population.

 This is the Patagonia I expected to see back in Chile until I realized the two parts of Patagonia are separated by a huge mountain range!  I must say world travels are honing my geographical bearings and even now South America seems much smaller and a less daunting place to travel after Peru and this trip.  Argentina Patagonia is hot and dry.  Yesterday it was supposed to be about 85F and maybe in the port it was, but where we ended up after a 90 minute ride over gravel/washboard road (not as grueling as the 4 wheel drive tour of yesterday) followed by a 4 km hike, it registered 100F.

Our first stop was the lighthouse and sea lion overlook.  We were really not there at the right time for the overlook as apparently low tide is better, and it wasn’t.  A gorgeous view nevertheless of the bay and the spit across the bay that contains the other lighthouse.  Like so many lighthouses, this one is now sun powered and electric, it was rebuilt out of fiberglass and as far as lighthouses go, it was unsightly but a lighthouse is a lighthouse and is therefore on Mary’s Compilation of Very Cool Things in Life. My romantic side longs for the romance of Abby keeping the light burning…. Rita said ships don’t need these lighthouses so much as navigation systems guide them into port, but were I Captain Mary I would still want lighthouse guidance as a backup.   

Next we went to the penguin colony.  I admit, I have turned into somewhat of a penguin snob already and had “already seen” Magellan penguins back in Punta Arenas and Magadalena Island.  Just goes to show there is always something to learn.  Whereas the MIMP’s (Magdalena Island Magellanic Penguins) stood out in the windswept hills with the seagulls flying around them, the PMMP’s (you can figure it out) nested under brush, bushes and any piece of shade they could find.  We walked 2km forth and back through the nesting area to get to the sea where they were swimming and at times it looked like we were greeted by a welcoming party, with penguins and chicks standing on the side of the path.  Sometimes they were waddling in front of us and to our left over a long berm was the ocean. It was easily another 2 km in that direction and penguins were waddling over there looking like so many intrepid explorers, then they’d disappear over the hill.  

We finally reached the beach and kept our distance from the shore but what a sight of the penguins frolicking and flying through the water.  From that viewpoint we could see their black backs racing along under the water, then they’d take a flying leap before diving back in, similar to dolphins! At one point our guide pointed out a rather young chick – still fluffy – walking towards the water with the older penguins for its first swim.  It had to sum up some courage but finally got in and then to our surprise just took off towards open water.  You could see it’s little duck-like head swimming away from shore, and quite a distance out.  Before long, it turned back and made its way back to safety of shore.  It was so funny to see it though, swimming for dear life in the wrong direction! 

We said goodbye to the penguins, our last that we will see now, and tromped back to our transportation through the brush.  What an incredibly adaptable creature the penguin is.  To see the difference between the two colonies, in different parts of Patagonia with wildly different climate was just fascinating.  Couldn’t help considering the difference from where we’d been last week and now.  

Our next stop was the ranch for lunch.  I used to love lamb but it sadly doesn’t agree with me anymore, but the rest of meal included potatoes, corn, salad, chorizo, fruit and  Welsh tea cake for dessert.  Back to the ship on the same gravel road with its expansive views and some interesting wildlife sightings – guanacos, which are in the camelid family and rheas, which are small ostrich-like birds.  They do fly but also run like ostriches. 

We arrived back at port and siesta was in full swing, everyone at the beach, but Al was still able to find me some Coke Zero for the rest of the trip. (That will be all the product placement, I promise) .  

The night skies are clear and I even was able to get a nice photo of the Southern Cross floating in the Milky Way.  There was a half moon shining on the sea.  All is well.  Except the toilet, but I’ll tell that story tomorrow. 

Tomorrow is another sea day, then three more ports before disembarking.